photographed in PARIS by ALICE ROSATI / Mily Kadz
assisted by ANDREA LUCIA FORESTA
production by MILY KADZ
Hair by BENEDICTE CAZAU BEYRET / Artlist
MakeUp by ALEXANDRA SCHIAVI / Airport
“There is so much beauty in the feminine form”, whispers soft-spoken Parisian lingerie designer Yasmine Eslami. Her love of the feminine silhouette led her to create her namesake underwear brand after ten years designing ready-to-wear for Vivienne Westwood, where she realised that what interested her most in fashion is what goes on behind the scenes.
“I enjoyed being backstage during the fashion shows, seeing what was chosen to go underneath the clothes”, recalls Yasmine from the Paris headquarters of lingerie and swimwear brand ERES, for whom she is designing her rst line of bathing suits, “but also going to the factories to see how the garments are made, and touch the fabrics”. Inspired by the work of image-makers Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin, her lightweight creations, transparent tulle underwear sets in jewel tones, have been the favourite of the chicest of Parisiennes. Sultry, sensual girls, aware of their own beauty, like the ones in Olivier Zahm's pictures for the Yasmine Eslami lookbook - but never overtly sexy.
Conscious of the strong symbolic behind underwear, Yasmine is careful never to fall into clichés. “Lingerie is a big source of fantasy. I'm not into fetish, it's not my thing. It's important to me to keep the natural curve of the breast; it tells so much of a woman, as the bosom evolves with time, age, children ...” Transparency is key in Yasmine's design process, so as to make the garment as light as possible. The designer can often be found in her boutique on the rue de Richelieu, accompanying customers in their choice of lingerie and listening to their feedback on her designs. Tara, Serena, Lily – the lines stay the same season after season, but Yasmine tweaks the details depending on the customer's experience.
“It's important that the underwear I create lives a bit. A bra is against the skin all day, and sometimes all night – if it doesn't feel right, it doesn't get worn”, explains Yasmine. “That's why I try to make my designs the lightest possible, using a lot of tulle and transparent fabrics, so that it feels like a second skin”. Never losing sight of the person wearing them. “I'm in love with people”, says Yasmine. “For me underwear is more than just an object, it's the girl beneath it”.