Once again, Saint Laurent has given us a show in the open. At first glance, we get nostalgia when we see the similarities with the shapes, silhouettes and the classic tweed so characteristic of the Chanel brand. However, at a second glance, it is clear that Virgine Viard was not the author of this collection, but Vaccarello himself was responsible for his Saint Laurent fall 2021 ready-to-wear collection.
He has taken YSL’s historical blur of luxury and kitsch, chic and trash, and made it new and celebratory, swapping Saint Lauren’s then-preferred monochrome palette for metallic fabrics in shades of violet, cobalt, gold and chartreuse. He also incorporates plush faux fur and lush leather, exquisite embroidery without leaving his now iconic fitted garments: the classic cycling shorts, that could not be missing from this collection.
Finishing off the looks, he slipped on shiny metallic stretch bodysuits and the smallest of leather miniskirts. In the words of the designer, “I like to play with those limits… It is very French to walk that line between ‘good’ and ‘bad’.
Text: Daniela Pintor
Info and photo: Vogue Mark Holgate